Feb 21·edited Feb 21Liked by David M. Perry, Matthew Gabriele
The first-ever German cookbook, "Das Buch von guter Speise" published ca. 1350, had a recipe for Krapfen, the German version of a pre-Lenten donut. Pastry chef Martin Schoenleben has translated the recipe into modern measures and provided instructions for anyone who wants to try it out: https://cafeschoenleben.de/ein-krapfenrezept-aus-dem-jahre-1360/
Chef Schoenleben doesn't mention how much grated lemon, vanilla and mace (geriebene Citrone, Vanille, Macis) to add to the dough. I'd suggest trying 1 1/2 to 2 Tbsp fresh lemon zest (= 1 1/2 to 2 tsp dried lemon peel); 1/2 Tbsp vanilla extract (= 3/4 tsp ground vanilla beans), or a little more if you want a stronger vanilla flavor; and 1 tsp ground mace, or the equivalent amount of nutmeg.
"Tractatus de modo preparandi et condiendi omnia cibaria :
Mistembec hoc modo fit: accipe de pasta tritici lauata, quantum uolueris, et aliquantulum de amido in aqua tepida dissoluto; de quo distempera predictam pastam ut fiat ad modum sorbitii; et facias descendere per scutellam in fundo et in latere foramen habende, et fac descendere in oleo feruido uel sagimine porci, diuersas formulas ad placitum pertrahendo. Quibus per decoctionem induratis, et ad hoc calidis existentibus, proice in syrupo de zuccaro aut de melle facto, et protinus remoue.
Syrupus hoc modo fit: dissolue zuccaram in aqua bulliente. Post, clarifica ouorum glarea quo utere.
Quidam inspissant ad modum paste et agitant in tabula cum ligno rotundo ad creandum (?) formulas roseas protrahendo. Post, in oleo bulliri permitunt."
My Greek grandmother made a beautiful fried dough confection called (my attempt at transliteration) “Deeplas”. It’s not filled but the dough is basically fried like a donut and then soaked in a honey and cinnamon mixture. She made them as hollow shells, sort of shaped like a flatter cannoli shell. I haven’t found her exact recipe in any Greek cookbook, although there are versions in print. I suspect this is a very old and traditional Spartan confection as she came from Mani (where the helots originated!) and knew only that before coming to America as a new bride early in the 20th c.
The first-ever German cookbook, "Das Buch von guter Speise" published ca. 1350, had a recipe for Krapfen, the German version of a pre-Lenten donut. Pastry chef Martin Schoenleben has translated the recipe into modern measures and provided instructions for anyone who wants to try it out: https://cafeschoenleben.de/ein-krapfenrezept-aus-dem-jahre-1360/
Chef Schoenleben doesn't mention how much grated lemon, vanilla and mace (geriebene Citrone, Vanille, Macis) to add to the dough. I'd suggest trying 1 1/2 to 2 Tbsp fresh lemon zest (= 1 1/2 to 2 tsp dried lemon peel); 1/2 Tbsp vanilla extract (= 3/4 tsp ground vanilla beans), or a little more if you want a stronger vanilla flavor; and 1 tsp ground mace, or the equivalent amount of nutmeg.
Here is a 13th c. recipe for "Mistembecs" from the always interesting Recette Médiéval https://recettemedievale.fr/mistembecs/ (I always cite blogs!)
"Tractatus de modo preparandi et condiendi omnia cibaria :
Mistembec hoc modo fit: accipe de pasta tritici lauata, quantum uolueris, et aliquantulum de amido in aqua tepida dissoluto; de quo distempera predictam pastam ut fiat ad modum sorbitii; et facias descendere per scutellam in fundo et in latere foramen habende, et fac descendere in oleo feruido uel sagimine porci, diuersas formulas ad placitum pertrahendo. Quibus per decoctionem induratis, et ad hoc calidis existentibus, proice in syrupo de zuccaro aut de melle facto, et protinus remoue.
Syrupus hoc modo fit: dissolue zuccaram in aqua bulliente. Post, clarifica ouorum glarea quo utere.
Quidam inspissant ad modum paste et agitant in tabula cum ligno rotundo ad creandum (?) formulas roseas protrahendo. Post, in oleo bulliri permitunt."
My Greek grandmother made a beautiful fried dough confection called (my attempt at transliteration) “Deeplas”. It’s not filled but the dough is basically fried like a donut and then soaked in a honey and cinnamon mixture. She made them as hollow shells, sort of shaped like a flatter cannoli shell. I haven’t found her exact recipe in any Greek cookbook, although there are versions in print. I suspect this is a very old and traditional Spartan confection as she came from Mani (where the helots originated!) and knew only that before coming to America as a new bride early in the 20th c.
Some interesting info here - http://forkingaroundwithhistory.pl/index.php?title=Packages_of_Goodness